The other side of Pattaya
"Everything has beauty, but not everyone sees it." ~ Confucius
Pattaya city in Thailand is known to the world as 'The Party Place', and honestly I had the same image about it until I experienced it myself. Beyond the neon lights and crowded streets lies another Pattaya - quieter, more local, more human, and perhaps the real one.
I think most places get defined by what the world says about it; but if you look a little deeper, you may find a story the world forgot to tell. Pattaya is one such great example of that, and I was lucky to spend 3 weeks there which were long enough to hear the real story of this beautiful city.
I had many such beautiful experiences in Pattaya, but I am writing about few that stood out the most.
Sanctuary of Truth
Just 5km away from Pattaya city is this marvellous place called Sanctuary of Truth - a wooden temple built entirely from intricately carved wood. It is hard to tag this as temple though, as it is nothing like a traditional temple in Thailand, it is less about worship and more about reflection. Its carvings explore an old idea that wealth and material things are temporary, while truth, morality, family and spirituality are what give life meaning. Its carvings tell stories that revolve around 4 of life’s most fundamental questions: Where did we come from? Why are we here? How should we live? And what remains when everything else is gone?
It has spectacular carvings of gods, animals and mythical figures that depict gods from Buddhist, Hindu, Thai and Chinese traditions.The carvings bring together these different cultures and elevates them to tell a greater truth. Every carving told the same old stories but in a unique way.
I took a picture of one such unusual carvings depicting the Samudra Manthan. What caught my eye was the way the entire cosmic story has been compressed into a vertical composition, rather than the more familiar horizontal scene of the Devas and Asuras pulling the serpent Vasuki from either side. At the centre sits Lord Vishnu, almost like the quiet facilitator holding the whole cosmic drama together.
The Sanctuary of Truth was the vision of a businessman named Lek, who chose to spend his fortune carving his questions about life, faith and humanity into wood. What struck me most though, was that Lek died in 2000, yet the carving and construction continue to this day. In a way, his idea outlived him, and the sanctuary keeps evolving rather than standing frozen as a finished monument.
I spent almost half a day immersed in its intricate architecture, but what stayed with me even more was the sense of pride and devotion with which Thai craftsmen continue to keep his vision alive.
Unique Ways of Worship
Rooster worship:
In many public places and temples I saw statues of roosters being worshipped and I was intrigued. I found out that it is specifically associated with King Naresuan the Great, one of Thailand’s most revered warrior kings.
Thailand was historically known as Siam and Ayutthaya was the capital of the Siamese kingdom long before Bangkok became the capital. The story goes that when Naresuan was a young prince, he was being held captive in Burma as a hostage. While being there he entered a cockfight against the rooster of the Burmese Crown Prince and Naresuan’s rooster won. According to the popular legend, the Burmese prince mocked the victory but Naresuan replied that his rooster could win more than a cockfight, it could win the whole kingdom.
Years later, Naresuan fought to free Ayutthaya from Burmese control and became a symbol of Thailand's independence. The cockfight therefore became a symbol of Thai courage, resistance and eventual independence.
Red Fanta Offerings:
In many temples and shrines I observed Red strawberry flavoured Fanta being bottles being kept in front of the idols. I later found out that it is replacement of traditional blood offering or other forms of sacrifice. The interesting part is Thailand has followed Buddhism which teaches non violence but it is believed that Thai religious practices often blends formal Buddhist beliefs with older local spirit traditions and it is not considered as a contradiction to Buddhism but seen as a beautiful blend of local beliefs and relegious teachings.
Koh Larn
A short 30 min boat ride from Pattaya takes you to Koh Larn, a small island nearby. The turquoise water, small fishing boats and unhurried pace of life made me wonder what the coast might have been before tourism took over. What stayed with me was how close this island was to Pattaya and yet how different it felt. You can leave the noise of Pattaya behind in the morning and, within minutes, find yourself in a completely different rhythm of life.
Acquapazza
I would have never believed it if someone told me this earlier, but the best Italian food I have had till now was in Pattaya, in a little road side restaurent called Acquapazza. It is run by a lovely couple, and every dish was made with love. 4 days after I reached Pattaya, the place was closed for renovation so I only ate there twice, but the food was so good that my memory of Pattaya is incomplete without this place.
Prince of Chumphon Monument
I used to love waking up early in morning and visiting random nearby monuments by walk. One of those walks led me to Prince of Chumphon monument. It was a short hike from Pattaya city on top of Pratumnak Hill.
The figure is Prince Abhakara Kiartivongse, widely revered as the Father of the Thai Navy. He went to Britain to study naval warfare and later helped modernize Thailand's navy with what he learnt. But what's more intriguing is that he was also known for traditional medicine and healing, He recorded medicinal recipes and treatment methods, and later treated ordinary people under the name “Mor Phon” (Doctor Phon). Hence to this day Thai people visit his monument and pay their respects. One can also see stunning panoramic view of the entire city from this here.
From Pratumnak Hill, also known as Pattaya Hill, the city looked strangely different. The crowds and the chaos were all there, but from a distance they seemed almost insignificant. Perhaps that is what a little height does, you don't necessarily see a different place, just the same place from a different perspective.
Pattaya is so much more than the reputation it carries, and I hope that those who visit in the future will take the time to look beyond the obvious and discover this beautiful side of the city too.
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